I got so far behind in January this year, an old friend suggested (on facebook) that we could just celebrate New Year’s at the Chinese New Year, February 14 this year.  So that’s what I’m doing… 2010 will launch officially in about a week!

In the meantime, I’m getting things from 2009 complete, cleaned up and put away. Drastic things are about to happen to my email inbox. How’s yours looking?

The truth is, I’ve been procrastinating a little and thinking about 2009 a lot. Here’s why:

For me, despite all the happy little videos and everything you’ve seen here, 2009 was not a great year. Actually, that’s me being nice and slightly superficial because now people from all over the world read this blog and I am still sometimes unsure how much of the truth I should say.  Here’s the deal: you know those years that are like giant roller coasters, the ones that are so big they hurt?  The ones with highs that leave you giddy and breathless and lows that feel like a few too many Gs before you hit the bottom? The ones that are supposed to be fun but bump and jar and turn out painful?  2009 was one of those years.

wheel_of_life

In coaching, there’s a commonly used model called the Wheel of Life.  It’s a way to visually display how things are going in each area of your life (you can change the categories based on what’s important to you), and see quickly and easily where attention should be focused, where things are out of balance, and where things are going well.  It looks like this and you assign points, 0 to 10, in each area or domain. For me in 2009 a couple of domains were going well and several (way more than one) domains should have been officially declared disaster areas. They now require long-overdue rescue and relief efforts.

So 2010 is about balancing that wheel. That can be much more difficult as an Expat than it is in your home country, because, for example, at home I loved my UU church. Here there isn’t one, or a writing group or a cadre of old cronies from the Ph.D. program, or a gaggle of girlfriends who’ve stayed all four years I’ve been here. I’ve had a challenging time finding a doctor who delivers the quality of care to which I’m accustomed… I’ve even flown back to the US to visit doctors and have tests paying personally out-of-pocket.  That just doesn’t work in the long run… and still all these areas need to be addressed, not simply avoided. So big changes are afoot here at XpatAdventures.  In the meantime, I’m still cleaning up from 2009. Here are some impressions from the year:

Some things I’m grateful for from 2009

- seeing so many parts of the world I’d never seen: Nepal, India, China, Prague…

- fabulous work leading courses to corporate leaders worldwide.

- Mom coming to visit so much!

- great dogsitters for Mufasa. Thank you!

- meeting so many women I’d only encountered on their blogs or recordings: Maggie Doyne, Jonatha Brooke, Letha Sandison, Jen Lemen, Andrea Scher, Jen Lee, Christine Mason Miller, Stacey Monk and many more…

- my friend in real life & co-Adventurer A. Davenporto, who moved back to the US. I miss her so.

Highlight Moments of the year:

When a survivor of the Rwandan genocide stood up at the European Summit and said out of the weekend she felt like she could fully engage in life again.

Watching Mama Lucy Painting for Peace at the European Summit for Global Transformation!

Thursday night of the training course with corporate leaders in Cambridge, England and they want to play SingStar (?) on the Wii.  I’ve never seen a Wii, but they had no idea I could sing and I am sooo competitive.  I beat them all bad with my rendition of the Soft Cell 1981 classic, Tainted Love. That was fun!

After Alesia dragged me walking all up and down the hills of Prague she sees a Thai foot massage place and jokingly says, “You want a foot massage?”  Most co-travelers might say no, too expensive, whatever… but I said, “YEAH I want a foot massage!  You just dragged me up and down both those giant hills behind us!”  It was fun.  I’m pretty sure it was Sawasdee Thai Foot Massage, the Hroznová 5 branch.

2010 promises to be a better year than 2009 because I am addressing the wheel, each and every domain. So many areas have been neglected while I traipsed around the world. It’s time to get back to basics. How about you. What areas on your Wheel need some time and attention?

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Stefan’s company sprung for a weekend trip to Saas-Fee, and we tacked on a couple extra nights to make a little holiday of it. Fun!  Here’s a wee bit of our trip (unfortunately not much of Stefan’s beautiful skiing, he can shoot and ski at the same time so he did most of the filming).

I’d never taken a funicular inside a tunnel — exciting! It’s the way up to the world’s highest revolving restaurant and a large under-glacier ice pavillion. There were lots of non-skiers up there, too.

I rented different skis every day because I’m looking to buy new ones. I can really tell the differences now. Don’t think I’d buy any that I tried. I had Salomon Equipe 3V Powerline racing skis one day — grippingest skis I’ve ever used, and it made a big difference!  I was able to easily go faster than ever before.  They were soooo heavy to carry around, though. They might have been more ski than I need now… but in a year? Who knows!

Note: Rates for the historic Hotel du Glacier on Expedia are per room and pretty much everywhere else it’s per person (read: double the price).

Saas-Fee Set to Song from Rebecca Self on Vimeo.

The song is Heartsounds by David Lanz from this Grand Piano compilation.

That’s a message for you at the end, Mom…

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I know it’s three four five weeks into January, I really do.

It’s just I’m not caught up yet. Bear with me.

Better than waiting til next Christmas, I thought I’d share this great day we had in Como, Italy this holiday season so you can plan to be here next year. Mark your calendars now.

It was the Sunday after Christmas, the 27th of December. In Lugano almost everything is closed on Sundays, but you get luckier in Como. Big grocery stores, cafes, a lot more things are open across the border than here. I can’t explain why. Take my word for it.

We went in search of a turkey because I hadn’t had a turkey dinner in five years.  Mom was here to cook with me and after another turkey-less Thanksgiving and Christmas I wanted a turkey. I’d seen an ad in a flyer for a big Italian grocery store… some sale on whole turkeys… so off we went. By the way, they eat salmon on Christmas in Italy and Germany, as far as I can tell.  From hotels to family homes that is what I’ve been served on Christmas Eve for five years straight. Great for the Perricone Diet, not at all what I want on Christmas.  So we went looking in Italy for a turkey.

Como cathedralNone of us had ever explored the historic center of Como, so we headed there first. We parked on the street near the cathedral, just outside the old city walls, and started wandering.  It was late in the afternoon and we couldn’t find open lunch places.  So what did we do?  A trick we learned from a cop friend in the U.S.  Ask the police for good, local lunch spots.  They always know.

tiramisu

The place they told us was closed, too, though… so we walked into Il Vecchio Borgo right on the lake, thinking it would be a tourist trap. It was not!  It was full of locals and this fabulous tiramisu.

Then we were thrilled to discover a tiny Christmas market still going on right in the heart of town…

All these cookies? I’d eat ‘em.

Como cookies

Pig’s feet? Would not eat them.

Como pig feet

This poor guy doesn’t realize the sign right next to him indicates the sausage is made of the rest of him…

Como chinghiale

Should you find yourself in Lugano on a Sunday and there’s nothing to do, consider Como. Lovely cathedral, good food, handsome people, la dolce vita. Enjoy!

Como strolling

Oh! And we made that turkey dinner, yes we did:

Turkey dinner

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We’re almost three weeks into the New Year and I still haven’t finished the Mondo Beyondo list I normally do for the New Year. Here’s what I’m not saying:

My soul… It is hungry for a new adventure.

As much as this seemed fun at first, the truth is

I need to stop working in my pajamas on the living room couch.

Have you seen this great video, “The Eight Irresistible Principles of Fun?” It’s time for me to get back out there and shake things up a bit, step up into the next level of being fully me. New and next adventures await! This video says it better than I ever could. It takes five minutes and thirteen seconds. Here’s a matching flyer, too. I’m pretty sure it just reset the course of my whole year.

What if we all followed these principles?  What would you do if you were being more fully you, living your life’s adventure to the hilt?

It’s time for me to start teaching again. Or get back to school, get networked with mentors, get into a creative community.
Send the book proposal out again. (That can be done on the couch and seems to work pretty well in pajamas.)
I wish we could have the European Summit all year long. Imagine what we’d create! We’ll connect again in 2010.

I don’t know who these Box of Crayons people are but I love them already. I found this through Susannah Conway’s blog; she found it through Chris Brogan, who also has a nice little post up about Cafe du Monde’s beignets, which makes him an even better blogger than he already was. Lord knows where else it’s been. This little video’s getting around. Enjoy! May it make your heart sing, too. What would be fun for you this year?

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I hear a lot of people say, “I don’t like Florence.”

To be honest with you, it upsets me a little every time… and not just because I went to school there decades ago and love it in the strange way you do places where you step foot off the train and it feels like home. It’s not just that.

Firenze che bello

It’s that, yes, there can be many tourists nel centro, in the heart of Firenze…  but there is also Michaelangleo’s Davide, Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Ponte Vecchio, the beautiful Piazza della Signoria, the cobblestoned streets where the Dark Ages blossomed into the Renaissance… and we’re going to let scheduling our visits at the same time as hordes of other tourists ruin our profound appreciation of the largest intact Renaissance city on the planet?  Come on, people!

ponte vecchio

This, by the way, is the Ponte Vecchio from my Mom’s room… there is no photo trickery here, there were no other buildings in between them.

What gets me even more is when people say they can’t find good food so they only ate panini or foccaccia standing up  in touristy bars. People, people, people.  If you can’t eat well in Florence, I’m not quite sure how I can help…

Here’s where we’ll start: one trick in places like this = in the early moments of meal times (as the bells strike noon, for example, or even a little earlier) follow the old ladies in very nice coats.

You think I’m kidding?

I’m not.

They will lead you to places like Fedra and Daniele’s All’Antico Vinaio, Via dei Neri 65/r, which we headed toward for lunch Friday (It’s closed on Mondays.).

deli lunch florence

It’s a rosticceria (think extensive deli, roast chicken, roast pork, simple enoteca) between the Piazza della Signoria and Santa Croce and has just a few tables in the back. It’s not fancy. I mean plastic plates not fancy, but  throughout our meal a steady stream of local Mammas and Nonnas purchased container after container of pasta & vegetables, and chickens ready for or fresh from the oven.

The best part? For 10 euros (!!!) you can get a large first course of pasta (including the hearty lasagna of many layers with a creamy bechamel) and a second course of 1/4 roasted chicken or other meat dish plus vegetables. I couldn’t believe the price was so low so I only ordered 1 vegetable (brussel sprouts, I love them!) but I could have gotten more. 10 euros! It was amazing. Never, ever say you can’t find good, cheap, quick food in central Florence. It was enough for two, especially with the lasagna as the first course.

Where to next?  Depends on what you’re looking for. If it’s cold and you’ve toured the Uffizi after lunch, have the thick and creamy hot chocolate at Rivoire, which has been serving since 1872 right in the Piazza della Signoria. It’ll cost almost as much as your lunch, but the people watching is fantastic. Linger. There are snacks at the bar I wish we’d noshed on.  We could have stayed longer and had hot cioccolata then segued right into prosecco and snacks at the bar before dinner. The people watching was that good. Could’ve stayed for hours.

For dinner right in the heart of town I like the Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco. We had two great pasta dishes this visit: the papardelle with cinghiale and tagliaerini with truffles. Yum. Dessert was oustanding: we had tiramisu, profiteroles and panna cotta. I’m not a big fan of panna cotta, but anything with that chocolate sauce on top would be great!

Cinghiale Bianco

berry semifreddo firenzeWe had another outstanding dessert at La Giostra, a place where the waiters speak a disturbing amount of English and are super-helpful. I’d say visit this place mostly for the experience of meeting the closest thing to Jack Sparrow you’ll ever see alive and in person in this lifetime (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to work on the films or know Johnny Depp in person) and the semifreddo drenched in freshly carmelized, hot raspberries and strawberries. It was marvelous.  If you know Johnny Depp, the Jack Sparrow-like owner is fabulous and the dessert is well worth the trip. The berries had a slight warm crunch to them from the just-hardening sugar. Note to Self: Must try that at home.

A mi piace molto Firenze. We enjoyed our trip very much and hope you will too… at least you’ll eat well now for sure!

They say if you rub the boar’s snout you’ll return to Florence again and again.  Maybe since I kissed him one day I will live there…

Stefan boar FlorenceMom boar Florence
kissing cinghiale

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Mom’s still visiting and the weekend’s approaching (means husband comes home from his out-of-town job soon). Turns out we all wanted Things Made of Leather (mom = wallet, S = belts, me = black leather jacket) for Christmas… so what’s the logical thing for XpatAdventurers to do?

Head to the local post-holiday sales in dept. stores?  No!

Go to Florence, Italy, heaven for leather goods, of course!

We’ll be there Friday through Sunday, in a little hotel between the Uffizi Galleries and the Ponte Vecchio. The area’s as close to a living museum as I’ve ever seen. Photos to follow soon.

In the meantime, I’ve been thinking a lot about what I’m doing on this blog these days. Adventures here and there are good and all, but to tell you the truth, I enjoyed this a lot more when there was a story to it, you know? A narrative arc, even if it was a pretty familiar (even trite?) one: heartbroken former stepmom flees to Europe to remake her life…

That was years ago now.

And then there was the part of being an expat that was all new and fresh and shiny, when every day was very nearly mindblowing, when I held out little plastic containers of pasta (gnochi, to be precise) and photo’d them for you to see how new and shiny and very nearly mindblowing every little last thing about living in this new, foreign country was.

But we’ve walked the neighborhood, you and I. We’ve explored local villages and eaten at all the neighborhood joints.

What happened next on this Expat’s adventure I imagine is probably pretty typical of most:

- after the Dating Game (a completely different story, see this post or that)

- I left the job I’d come here for and started over professionally in a place where I knew almost no one and didn’t speak the language. That went unbelievably well and I am indebted to one person in particular. She knows who she is (and now so do all of you).

- Then, after a while, my friends moved back “home.” That happens in expat communities.

Now, given that I skiied Andermatt last weekend and am going leather shopping in Florence today, I do not expect you to pull out your violins and play all the heavy, Wagnerian, sad songs for me. No, no, no. That is not the point. The point is… what the hell happened to Frances Mayes after Under the Tuscan Sun?

I’ve read some of those other books and they are pretty damned boring. Liz Gilbert’s gonna write about marriage next. Don’t even get me started on that!

So… all that is to say… in 2010 it’s time to write a new chapter, construct a new narrative. If you’re like me, when it’s time for this you think to yourself, “Oy Vay! I did that four years ago, and then again three years ago!  Enough already!”

I think we both know, though, that re-creation is the spice of life.

That, and turmeric.

And after the “Oy Vay” passes, something happens and off you go. I’m not quite there yet, just so we’re clear. I’m still at least a little in the “Oy Vay!” stage. Plus that, and I know this is probably a different post, I turn 40 this year. Oh boy, are there about to be some posts about that. You can also expect upcoming posts on my usual New Year’s Business.

For now, I’m going to the market in Florence and eating a lot of good food Under the Tuscan Sun.  Ciao tutti!

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Weekend in Andermatt

by Rebecca on 07 Jan 2010

weekend in Andermatt

Last weekend we headed up into the mountains — for something fun to do and because my Mother loves snow. Stefan and I skiied Saturday and Sunday at Gemsstock and Mom and Mufasa went for long walks and hung out in the cute, overpriced little town of Andermatt.

Hmmm… in terms of reviews: I LOVE that Andermatt is so close. We were checked into the hotel and all set up within an hour and a half of leaving home. Wow! Wow! Wow!  Made me wonder why I hadn’t been skiing there frequently all these years (there was no traffic at the Gotthard Tunnel, and that can sometimes hold you up for hours).

On the other hand, I found the town overpriced for what it is… and that goes for the hotel rooms (and we checked out both of the hotels shown above), the food (we ate at both) and the ski passes. We paid an outrageous sum at the 3 Koenige Hotel… more than just about anywhere I’ve stayed in the last year… and then they wanted to charge us to go into the sauna area!  I’m not a huge price shopper, as you may have guessed from this blog, but I do like to get good value for my money… and the way we did it (renting skis, staying in a hotel, etc.) wasn’t that.

Next time I would rent a little apartment.  The adorable town is very small and full of little vacation rentals. We’re also going to check out Sedrun… another nearby ski area… and I’ve got my eye on sale prices for Volkl Luna skis. 156 cm. You can be sure we’ll be back in Andermatt…

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Christmas 2009

by Rebecca on 30 Dec 2009

I grew up in Florida and my parents still live in the house we moved into when I was in 6th grade. Florida is great. It’s beautiful in many ways and places. There’s Disney World, swimming with dolphins, miles and miles of white sandy beaches… the thing is, much of the year (when most tourists have the good sense to go back where they came from), it is hot. I mean, so hot you think you’re gonna melt and you move from one air conditioned space to another, or people play golf or run or whatever they need to do outside in the wee hours of the morning or the still-light moments just after sunset.

So… my Mother and I both LOVE snow. Christmas for us is all about beautiful wintery places. Dad stays home to watch American football. This year she arrived for Christmas just hours before a snow storm hit Lugano. She was THRILLED.

Snow in Lugano Mom 2009

Then we packed up and headed North (and there was no new snow!) with the dog to the beautiful Relais & Chateaux Hotel Dollenberg in the Black Forest. They had a beautiful Christmas program, we had a super-fun dinner in a mountain hut, Mufasa loved the feather beds, I ate the finest pasta with truffles I have ever put in my mouth. A good time was had by all:

Xmas 2009If you go to the Hotel Dollenberg, do the Hut Night — it’s included. (Check out the leather pants and Mother-of-Pearl accordian!)

Also plan to arrive in time for Tuesday’s Kitchen Night — the young chef here is truly world-class. The food was among the finest I’ve ever eaten anywhere.

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A little Swiss Humor

29 December 2009

An American friend who used to live here in Switzerland once said the Swiss have no sense of humor. I’ve seen several indications recently, though, that that is simply not true.
First, I boarded this plane December 2 on the way to Dusseldorf.  Had to stop on the tarmac and shoot a few pics.  The [...]

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A few notes from my recent trip to China

15 December 2009

Here are a few things I noticed on my recent (and first) trip to China:

This is a crowded shopping area, Dong Men, near the hotel. I took this on Sunday afternoon.  The whole city is not this crowded; I include this for effect. (Yes, that is a Pizza Hut. There were two different Pizza Hut [...]

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