Best & Worst of 2008

Best Hotel Experiences of 2008

Hotel Schloss Chastè, Tarasp, Engadine, Switzerland

It’s a lovely family-run hotel way up in the mountains. Relaxing and walking are the items on the day’s agenda… unless you plan a trip down the mountain to the Scuol mineral baths. Dad’s the chef and the food’s outstanding.

Victoria and Alfred Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa

The Table Bay Hotel, also located in the V&A Waterfront, was nicer, but not worth double the price, in my opinion. If money’s no object, go for the Table Bay and ask for a room way up high with a view of Robben Island. Otherwise, this is clean, perfectly located and has lovely rooms. Eat elsewhere on the Waterfront. There are so many choices.

Chalet Barbara, Arabba, Italy

Maybe I’m biased because we were staying here when we got married, but I love the simple charm of the Chalet Barbara. Combine it with the great food for dinner at the SportHotel Arabba (owned by the same family) and you have a winner for a skiing holiday in the Dolomites. Hopefully there’ll be more snow this year! I particularly enjoyed the piano bar in the evenings.

Worst Hotels of 2008

Lagoon Beach, Milnerton, Cape Town, South Africa

The staff was nice but this place was beat-up and dirty, my room was crawling with ants and that seemed to be the norm. You can do better in Cape Town, even if it does have a great view of Table Mountain. The Web site makes it sound far better than it is.

Hotel Bristol, Bern, Switzerland

This was one of my most bizarre hotel experiences ever, and I am in hotels well over 70 nights per year. My husband and I checked in and started to get comfortable when he noticed someone had used the shower and I, sitting on the bed, felt someone else’s pajamas under my pillow! The front desk clerk actually suggested we still stay in that room with no change of sheets because the guest had apparently come and gone without staying. Disgusting.

Best Travel Experiences 2008

Wine and Oil tasting at Castello Il Palagio, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy

I organized a trip for 16 ladies and we were treated like queens! The grounds are lovely, the guide was a local young woman – so down to earth. They prepared a surprising variety of appetizers and tastings for us. The little shop on the grounds is the perfect spot for Tuscan souvenirs.

Candlelit Dinner in Plan Boe, Arabba, Italy

Again, I may be a little biased because this was our impromptu (perfect) wedding reception in our favorite lunch and après ski chalet on the ski runs. One night per week during winter they do a candlelit dinner. It happened to be the night we got married, so up we all went on snow mobiles. Three fabulous courses and dancing round out the evening!

Lavey Les Bains, Lavey, Switzerland

On an uncrowded day, this hot spring resort is pretty close to heaven on earth. It’s a big place with several pools and saunas. Three or four hours here makes for a great afternoon. Next time i’ll try the massages and report back.

Cape Malay Cooking Safari, Bo-Kaap, Cape Town, South Africa

Learn about the history of Cape Town’s vibrant Muslim community and try your hand at making local curries. The local people who lead these tours are what make it truly special. I’ve been trying to replicate the recipes ever since! Nissam Peck was my fabulous tour guide — ask for him.

Renting a boat at CB’s and toodling around Sarasota, Florida, USA

This reminded me of being a kid on my dad’s boat. Fishing, people watching, seeing the city from the water are highlights of the experience. Stop at the New Pass Grill for a cheeseburger in paradise. Make sure to bring sun screen!

The Richard Petty Driving Experience at the Daytona Speedway, FL, USA

This was a great birthday present for my German husband! He went very fast – even my Mom did a few laps around at the speedway. Great fun was had by all. This is an exceptionally well-run outfit. Stefan’s still watching his in-car video!

Worst Travel Experiences 2008

Cooking with Martha, Cellars-Hohenort Relais & Chateaux, Constantia, South Africa

It’s decorated to the nines, but stay for mere minutes and you discover that this entire hotel, I’m sorry to say, is a bit of a disaster. Massages not great, staff seriously undertrained. The cooking experience was disgraceful. I was handed a few recipes and told I’d be doing the cooking. Martha said, “If you need any pots or pans, just ask.” There was no one in the restaurant that night (the whole night), perhaps an indication of its quality.

Best Meals of 2008

Isola Comacina, Isola Comacina, Lake Como, Italy

On the longest day of the year we chartered a boat and went with 17 friends and family members out to this island. They serve a set five-course meal we love every time. It’s a setting special enough for the Ocean’s Twelve wrap party. Come early and hike the hills of the island, or reprise our July evening and see the fireworks/ritual destruction of the island, commemorating its ruin in 1169. They relive it once a year.

Hornbaek Hus, Hornbaek, Denmark

I’m not sure about recommending this place for tourists because I lead week-long training courses here and never see tourists. When I work there, I feel taken care of, rested and well-fed! The chef is so good, my entire relationship to food is altered – I eat more fish and he bakes gluten-free breads and cakes for me. I go home feeling like a million bucks. The staff at this little seaside manor are better than anyplace I’ve ever been.

Röstihaus Eienwäldli, Engleberg, Switzerland

It doesn’t get much more rustic than this wooden building next to a campground – but oh, the rösti! They have twenty different varieties to choose from and I ordered Bratwurst or Wiener Schnitzel or some such nonsense. What was I thinking? Stefan’s Zuericher G’schnetzeltes (translated: typical of Zurich, really good sliced veal with gravy over rösti) was big enough to share (sort-of). Well, he might not say so, but he shared. It was so good I’ve been thinking about it for a couple months. There are fantastic hiking trails starting not far from this joint, so it makes for a perfect pre- or post-hike pit stop.

Little place on side of road in Chianti, near Fiano/Certaldo, Tuscany, Italy

My Mother and I are both severely hypoglycemic. Late one May afternoon we were in the car with two friends. All of us were frantically searching for a lunch spot where we could pull over before either my Mother or I blew a gasket. This place was a godsend. We went back later in the week to make sure it was as good as we remembered and it wasn’t just the hunger. It was even better. Opened recently by a local carpenter (Enrico) and his cooking wife (Simona), he’s made all the furniture by hand. Everything was outstanding, all fantastically authentic Tuscan. He was sweet as can be. The night we were there was the first time they’d ever been full (“slammed” we used to say when I waited tables). He handled it with all the aplomb of a seasoned veteran. There are apartments over the restaurant, too. The Web site has driving directions.

Best Massage 2008

Librisa Spa, Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa

The famous high tea was crowded and overrated at this Cape Town institution, but the young woman from Durban who gave me my massage was a master. I am a connoisseur and rarely pleased with my massages. This one was good.

Note on Airline Experiences 2008:

I’d normally have Best and Worst airline experiences. I am too upset about my airline experiences this year to write about them here. The only really good experience I had was with British Airways Business Class, and that’s simply because the seats are phenomenal. The rest of the industry (especially US Air and to my horror Lufthansa) should be ashamed, as far as I can tell, and I have flown business and economy this year. I’m available to design and lead customer service trainings industry-wide and will happily be a mystery shopper.

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